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In this Techtextil, Texprocess, Heimtextil Summer Special Preview, we bring you the latest developments from the co-located events and provide insight into key growth areas for the textile value chain.

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A new world to discover This year (2022) marks an important year for Messe Frankfurt, the organiser behind Techtextil, Texprocess and the latest in technical textiles and Texprocess showcasing developments in manufacturing processes. However, Heimtextil while also taking place in

ongoing challenges and discover resource-efficient and sustainable textiles and processes. In this Summer Special Preview, we bring you the latest developments from the events and provide insight into key growth areas for the textile value chain. For more information, visit www.wtin.com

Heimtexil. For the first time, the organiser will host its Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil Summer Special in Frankfurt, Germany – where these once separate events will now be co-located in one. This comes amid the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, which saw global events, including previous editions of these three events, postponed or cancelled. Techtextil and Texprocess have always been co-located (in Frankfurt) with Techtextil bringing

Frankfurt, has traditionally occured at the beginning of the calendar year and was one of the final events to take place in January 2019, before the global fallout from Covid-19 began. Co-locating these events will allow exhibitors and visitors to reconnect post Covid-19 in a difficult time for the industry, plagued with supply chain issues and the ongoing energy crisis. During the event, participants are able to explore solutions to

Madelaine Thomas Content Lead @ MThomas_WTiN

Contents 3. A new world to discover 4. Techtextil News 10. Sponsored: Enabling textile-to-textile recycling 12. Performance: the critical factor 13. What’s new in performance textiles coatings? 14. Sustainability key for outdoor market 15. The why and how of UV protective textiles 16. Niche market becomes mainstream 17. Smart textile tariffs and duties 18. Texprocess News 22. Palpable synergy between sustainability and digitalisation 23. IoT technologies for textile manufacturing 24. Heimtextil News 25. Maintaining momentum in home textiles 26. Assessing the digital textile printing market

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Discovering innovations live Techtextil and Texprocess are once again set to bring together the will be held in Halls 8, 9, 11 and 12 on the western section of Messe Frankfurt. Techtextil will showcase innovative

wide range of topics relating to technical textiles and nonwovens. These include talks such as “Circular Economy in the Textile Industry - a Positioning”, “Development of 3D-printed composite elements for personal stab protective clothing” or “Transforming Textiles to Testimonies - recycled solutions for architectural membranes”. The patron of the Techtextil Forum is once again EURATEX - The European Apparel and Textile Confederation. Performance Textiles in Fashion: Experiencing textile end products At Techtextil, countless innovative textiles for a wide range of industries will be presented. To demonstrate the properties or possible applications, most exhibitors also show end products from the many areas of application, including apparel. The special show “Performance Textiles in Fashion” in Hall 9.1 brings functional textiles and fashion to life for visitors. The special show will feature extraordinary and innovative garments, according to organisers. With the postponement of the two events until 2022, both events will now change their cycle of events and will shift permanently to even years. The subsequent edition of Texprocess & Techtextil will take place from 23-26 April 2024.

technical textile and textile processing sectors at physical events in Frankfurt am Main in Frankfurt, Germany from 21-24 June 2022. Trade visitors can look forward to numerous exhibitors and a broad spectrum of themes. According to organisers, 1300 exhibitors from 51 countries, including the organisers of numerous joint stands, will be taking part in the Frankfurt-based exhibition. In addition to German exhibitors, companies from Italy, France, Turkey and Spain are most frequently represented. Olaf Schmidt, vice president Textiles & Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt, says: “The sector is in motion again and people have a great need to find out about the latest developments and see innovations live. Over the last one and a half years or more since the outbreak of the pandemic, companies have had faced a variety of new challenges. Many of the companies have undergone a complete restructuring and, simultaneously, launched a host of innovations. Now, they want to discuss them with an international audience of trade visitors.” Both Techtextil & Texprocesss will be held as hybrid events with many supplementary digital services for exhibitors and visitors in addition to the live exhibition and programme of events, organisers say. Techtextil and Texprocess

material offerings – such as fibres, yarns and fabrics – that cater to automotive markets, fashion designers, medical technology specialists and industrial specialists. Five key application areas will be Medtech, Oekotech, Clothtech, Mobiltech and Buildtech. The trade show will also feature the walk-in Texprocess & Techtextil Forum and its staple Innovation Award. For the first time, submissions from products that have not yet been certified sustainable will be judged by an independent jury. Programme of events with forums and innovation awards With the Techtextil and Texprocess Forums, visitors to both events can look forward to highly topical and multi-faceted insights into a wide variety of subjects throughout the two events. The Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards will also be given for outstanding new developments in the fields of technical textiles, nonwovens and functional apparel textiles, as well as technologies and methods for processing textiles and flexible materials, in 2022. Techtextil Forum On all four days of the fair, the Techtextil Forum in Hall 9.1 will offer exciting expert lectures and discussions on a

Yarn joining solutions and laboratory testing equipment Italy-based manufacturer of yarn

is a condensed list of the main testing parameters that can be assessed with the Mesdan-Lab range: - Strength (up to 50kN capacity), perforation, fatigue (cycle testing), stretch recovery, elongation, tear, adhesion, etc - Cutting resistance (with circular and linear blades) - Bursting and tearing

impact abrasion - Flammability and evalauation of burn risks - All kind of dimensional stability and colour fastness testing (rubbing, sunlight, washing, etc) Mesdan is the European sales & service station of Thermetrics USA, manufacturer of precision instruments for measuring and evaluating the thermal comfort properties of textiles, garments, protective apparel, as well as dynamic thermal environments such as car, truck and aircraft interiors.

joining solutions and laboratory testing equipment, Mesdan, will be showcasing its technology at Techtextil from 21-24 June in Frankfurt, Germany. Mesdan will be present at the ACIMIT/ITA (the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers/Italian Trade Agency) exhibition space along with 28 other Italian textile machinery manufacturers. Where technical and PPI (weather protective, fire protective, against mechanical risks) are concerned, below

- Air and water permeability - Water vapour absorption - Static electricity - Wear (Martindale) and pilling,

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Efficiently manufacturing technical textiles At Techtextil from 21-24 June in

The Mahlo team will present a wide portfolio of intelligent scanners and sensors that record product and process parameters, such as distortion, fabric temperature, dwell time, basis weight, coating weight, thickness, moisture content, residual moisture, exhaust moisture, air permeability, etc online. Among other things, visitors can expect to see the Famacont PMC-15 weft density measurement system in live operation. The system measures the weft or course density on the running web and compares it with the target value stored in the recipe data management system. The detected deviation from the target value is used to fully automatically control the overfeed during the needling process at the stenter frame and to ensure a constant weft/course density over the full width of the product, the company adds. Mahlo’s range also includes solutions for straightening distorted goods.

Best suited for technical textiles are, for example, the symbol of the straightening machine, the Orthopac RVMC-15 and the reinforced version Orthopac GRVMC-15. Frame, bearings, and rollers are designed for high loads and allow large working widths of up to 5,400 mm. As the latest development from Mahlo, the experts present the Orthopac CRVMC-15 automatic straightener, which is particularly interesting for the glass and carbon fabric industry and some special applications. The team will also demonstrate measurements on various fabric samples. Different sensors from the modular quality measuring system Qualiscan QMS are used, the company says. The specialists will explain on site which solution ultimately fits the customer’s application exactly. This is how production processes can be effectively improved. Visit Mahlo at Booth D69, Hall 12.

Frankfurt, Mahlo – a manufacturer of measuring, control and automation systems for the textile and finishing industry as well as the coating, film and paper sector – will be demonstrating how manufacturers of technical textiles can optimise their production using measuring and control technology. With its solutions, the German machine manufacturer meets the demand for quality, efficiency and sustainability, it says. Matthias Wulbeck, product manager QCS at Mahlo, says: “Against the backdrop of the current, previously unthinkable events in Europe and the extreme rise in energy prices, online process control in textile production processes is suddenly more important than ever before.” The continuous collection, analysis and preparation of the right data as well as the seamless transition of data flows are therefore essential for the success of a company, Mahlo says.

Sound-based haptic measuring device to digitalise production

The transition to digital processes requires innovative solutions to replace outdated analogue processes, such as those traditionally used to measure aesthetic haptic traits. The Tactile Sensation Analyzer from Emtec Electronic is a portable device that quickly places an objective and reliable number-value on a variety of fabric traits, such as softness, smoothness, deformation and recovery, says the company. Convening in-person once again from 21-24 June, 2022, the Techtextil Frankfurt am Main convention is expected to draw in thousands of international visitors, more than half of which are responsible for purchasing decisions at their respective companies. Leipzig-based device manufacturer Emtec Electronic will be on site to present its TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer, a sound-based measuring solution for determining the haptic of textiles and nonwovens. Because of its singular design and unique measuring principle, the TSA is poised to replace traditional means for measuring haptic traits. This includes

methods such as hand-panel testing, in which many tactile experts or, in some cases, consumers compare and rank material samples, often in a series of tests. However, the individual results often vary widely and require multiple series of tests to determine an average hand-feel, which can be time-consuming. In addition, humans are rarely able to distinguish between the individual components of the haptic — for instance, between smoothness and softness — and can only provide an overall impression of a material’s hand-feel, the company says. The Tactile Sensation Analyzer allows researchers and technicians to measure each parameter individually and uses market-specific algorithms to calculate an objective hand-feel value. The results correlate very closely with the human tactile perception and are available within minutes in digital form. Visit Emtec Electronic at Booth E35, Hall 12. Area sales manager Stefan Rübesam will be available to answer questions.

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A sustainable first showing Following their merger, Freudenberg Performance Materials, Low & Bonar, Mehler Texnologies and Filc will be presenting their innovative solutions at a joint stand for the first time at this year’s Techtextil exhibition in Frankfurt. The joint focus is on sustainability. Among the highlights are Evolon RE, a microfilament textile for a wide variety of applications and markets, Filflex, a sustainable padding material for car seat covers and the truck tarpaulin Polymar 8556 Eco CF. Evolon textiles made from recycled PET With Evolon RE, Freudenberg Performance Materials is presenting an even more sustainable version of its high-performance microfilament textiles. Evolon RE is manufactured from an average of 70% recycled polyester, which the company makes by cycling post-consumer PET bottles in-house. Evolon RE products are available for various applications such as technical packaging, in weights currently ranging from 80g/sqm to 300g/sqm. For high-tech wiping, lightweight Evolon RE is now available starting from 30g/sqm. The material meets the needs of cleaning specialists for more sustainable wiping solutions. Evolon RE offers the same high quality and material performance as all When it comes to tarpaulins on trucks, both protection of the transport cargo and advertising for the transport company place high demands on the material. Mehler Texnologies tarpaulin material ranks among the premium products for truck tarpaulins. The company is a pioneer in sustainable development and is showcasing Polymar 8556 Eco CF. This material has a 25% share of recycled raw materials in the coating mass. In addition, the material is made with 100% R-PES yarns. The input materials undergo a complex separation and filtering process, the company says. Sustainable padding material for automotive and furniture seat covers presented by Filc Filflex is a soft and flexible padding layer made from nonwovens for automotive and furniture seat covers. It prevents leather from creasing and improves the dimensional stability of the seat covers. In terms of sustainability, its benefit is its 100% PET composition, making Filflex easy to recycle. Filflex offers customers easier handling during sewing and the seat covering process. For more information visit Booth C51 in Hall 12.1. other Evolon textiles, the company says. Tarpaulins made from recycled raw materials presented by Mehler Texnologies

Production Systems for Nonwovens Needling

Hydroentangling Thermobonding

DiloGroup P.O. Box 1551 69405 Eberbach / Germany Phone +49 6271 940-0 Fax +49 6271 711 42 info@dilo.de, www.dilo.de

DILOAnzProdSystGB90x258SustainableNonwovens

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Improving production technologies for needlefelt nonwovens

For DiloGroup, Techtextil is an opportunity to inform customers and interested parties about new developments aimed at improving production technologies with a focus on needlefelts. With the increased push for sustainability, industrial sectors are requested to achieve savings in material and energy usage. DiloGroup plays an important role by offering solutions for fibre pulp recycling and reduction of energy, water and ancillaries. The company says it has made efforts to meet these challenges together with a circle of partner companies. In this regard focal points of the development work are: 1. Intense needling Needling per se is a mechanical production method with a high energy efficiency. For this reason, the development efforts of DiloGroup aim at producing nonwovens by intense needling instead of water entangling, even for light nonwovens made of fine fibres for the medical and hygiene sector with an area weight of 30-100 g/sqm, the company says. This would result in a reduction of the environmentally relevant production costs; per annum to about 1/3 to 1/5 of current. Despite the prospective advantages of the mechanically intense needling method over the hydrodynamical, water entanglement is currently the most important production method for low area weights and highest production capacity and is also offered by the DiloGroup as general contractor in cooperation with partner companies.

2. Fibre pulp recycling Fibrous material in nonwovens and particularly used clothes can be successfully recycled, if staple length can be conserved in the tearing process. In the classical tearing process, staple lengths are dramatically reduced and therefore these fibres can only be used as base material for inferior uses in thermal or acoustic insulation or in protective textiles, transportation or protective covers etc. When recycling textile waste in the context of the collection of used clothes, the so called “filament-saving” tearing using special tearing machines and methods must be used to produce fibres with longer staple lengths which can be fed to a nonwoven installation. Hence product characteristics can be better specified and controlled. 3. Additive nonwoven production The additive production method of the 3D-Lofter is especially suited for automotive parts with differently distributed masses; but there may also be potential for increasing uses in the sector of apparel and shoe production, says DiloGroup. 4. IsoFeed card feeding In the field of card feeding, the IsoFeed method offers great potential for a more homogeneous card feeding. At the same time it reduces the variation in cross-machine fibre mass distribution and thus the fibre consumption while conserving the end product quality. To discuss further, visit Booth B95 in Hall 12.

Controlling contamination In medical, hygienic and cosmetic

of control over contamination in the carded fleece – and consequently the end product. The risk of contamination, such as small pieces of plastic, reaching the card is that it will be shredded into minute particles and then be incorporated into the material at web bonding. This kind of contamination would be disastrous in a hygiene or cosmetic application which comes into contact with sensitive human skin. With Uster Jossi Vision Shield N integrated in their fibre processing line, nonwovens producers can avoid that risk, says the company. Uster Jossi Vision Shield N uses imaging spectroscope technology to identify contamination in a fraction of a second, instantly removing it from the

mass of good fibre material, the company adds. Detection works across a much greater wavelength than conventional camera systems, so that contamination as small as a single hair and in the lightest colours is pinpointed. Proven contamination control for bleached cotton For best results in contamination detection, Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is integrated right after the opener in the blowroom. At this stage in fibre preparation, detection is enhanced, since the fibre tufts are open, preventing any small contaminants being hidden inside them, Uster says. Once identified, the contaminations are automatically ejected by the system,

applications flawless end-products are essential. And that means contamination in the fibre raw material is not allowed. Technology company Uster says its Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is the solution. It works right at the start, within the process line, eliminating even the tiniest unwanted particles and protecting nonwovens manufacturers from damaging claims, the company says. Optimisation in fibre processes Raw fibres from bales are opened and blended in the blowroom before carding and this stage can significantly influence the quality of the end-product in drylaid nonwovens. Installing an Uster fibre cleaner in the line ensures highest level

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preventing contamination of the web. Some waste here is inevitable, but Uster Jossi Vision Shield N controls this by continuously measuring the speed at which the fibre tufts pass through. It then uses precision valves to time each ejection perfectly, so that only the unwanted contaminant is removed, with an absolute minimum of ‘good’ fibre being lost. Fitting every line Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is the result

of surveys, close collaboration with international nonwovens companies and countless hours of field tests. Installation is easy, since the fibre cleaner’s slim design fits perfectly into existing lines. The system readily copes with the pace of standard production environments – up to a capacity of 2,000 kg/hr. Customers can choose between widths of 1,600 and 1,200 mm, with specific solutions available for challenging environments and with any type of material. Stainless steel inserts,

in areas which come into contact with the fibres, guarantee unmatched durability, says the company. The future-oriented graphical user interface gives a quick overview of running performance in real-time, on a large high-resolution touchscreen, showing the most relevant data at a glance. User-friendly, quick and intuitive navigation makes data handling easy. Join Uster at Techtextil on B55 in Hall 12.0.

Enhancing productivity and efficiency in nonwovens At this year’s Techtextil, Oerlikon

HycuTEC – technological quantum leap for filter media In the case of its HycuTEC hydro-charging solution, Oerlikon Neumag offers a new technology for charging nonwovens that increases filter efficiency to more than 99.99%, the company says. For meltblown producers, this means material savings of 30% with significantly superior filter performance. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance. With its considerably lower water and energy consumption, this new development is also a future-proof, sustainable technology, Oerlikon adds.

simultaneously stretch in a controlled manner in emergencies in order to reduce the load in the event of impact. A seat belt comprises approximately 300 filament yarns, whose individual, high-tenacity yarn threads are spun from around 100 individual filaments. Dr Roy Dolmans, technology manager IDY and R&D Filament Processing, Oerlikon says: “With our unique, patented Single Filament Layer Technology, we offer a sophisticated and simultaneously gentle high-tenacity (HT) yarn process for manufacturing these lifesavers and other applications made from industrial yarn.”

Polymer Processing Solutions will be presenting the trade audience with new applications, special processes and sustainable solutions focusing on the production of industrial textiles, the company says. Among other things, Oerlikon will be showcasing new technology for charging nonwovens, with a focus on quality and efficiency. The company will be concentrating on airbags, seat belts, tire cord, geotextiles, filter nonwovens and its diverse applications. More polyester for airbags Airbags have become an integral part of our everyday automotive lives. The yarns used in them are made predominantly from polyamide. As a result of increasingly diverse airbag applications and also the increasing size of the systems used, today polyester is used as well, depending on the application requirements and cost-benefit considerations. Against this background, the Oerlikon Barmag technologies make an invaluable contribution, according to the company. In addition to high productivity and low energy consumption, the company prides itself on its stable production processes, it says. Seat belts Seat belts play a decisive role in protecting vehicle occupants. They have to withstand tensile forces in excess of three tons and

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wipes, building insulation, mattresses, car interiors and furniture fillings, can be created with these roll goods. Chemical recycling Chemical recycling of textile waste is a vital, emerging business area. It is the piece of the puzzle that completes the picture of textile-to-textile circularity. Andritz is a key player here because the core process steps involved can use the same equipment as in existing pulp and paper technology. The process often requires the input of raw material based on a blend of different fibres that have been mechanically treated prior to chemical modification. Andritz has the equipment and expertise to offer technology solutions for new chemical processes according to the customer’s needs. This includes complete production lines and individual equipment for chemical recycling processes such as washing, mixing, cooking, bleaching and drying. Depending on the customer’s technology solution, cellulose-based fibres and polyester from fibre blends, for example, are further modified to allow them to be used in any textile fibre spinning process (such as viscose or Lyocell production) in the same way as market dissolving pulp. Alexandre Butte, general manager, and Charles Junker, head of sales, at Andritz Laroche, say: “Chemical and mechanical processes are fully complementary in the drive to achieve the desired end result, but the addition of chemical treatment is certainly a game changer for textile-to-textile recycling.” They add: “The great thing with our range of technologies is that we can adjust the process according to the end use. If you require a certain colour of yarn, then this can be achieved through a combination of the choice of textile waste, the use of dyes and the chemical input – these can all be balanced to optimise the process and minimise the use of bleach for example.” Cross-industry collaborations Cross-industry collaborations are also vital to promote circularity. Andritz has partnered with both Infinited Fiber Company and CIRC in recent years. In 2020, Andritz and Infinted Fiber Company signed a cooperation agreement to develop the process and equipment solutions for Infinited Fiber Company’s

textile fibre regeneration technology. This turns any cellulose-rich raw material – including discarded textiles, used cardboard or rice/wheat straw – into Infinna cellulose carbamate fibres. Under the cooperation agreement, the two companies work together to develop the factory process and equipment solutions. The aim is to optimise every process step in preparation for the technology to be scaled up to commercial production. Hannu Råmark, vice president of technology, fibre technologies, and Elina Pesonen, product manager of fibre technologies, in the pulp & paper division at Andritz, say: “It was a big feature in the establishment of our cooperation with Infinited Fiber Company that they saw we have so many different technologies, essentially a one-stop shop.” They add: “Andritz is happy to work with Infinited Fiber Company to create solutions for textile recycling, especially bearing in mind that the EU Waste Framework Directive legislates that Member States should set up separate collection for textiles by 1 January 2025.” Infinited Fiber Company is building a 30,000 t/a flagship plant in Finland, representing an investment of €220m (US$232m), which is due to go into operation in 2024. Currently, Andritz is conducting pre-engineering for the pre-treatment of textile waste for the flagship plant. Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, Andritz signed a cooperation agreement with CIRC in 2021. Located in Virginia (US), the companies are pooling their expertise in the field of textile recycling to upscale CIRC’s recycling extraction of both recycled PET and cotton from polycotton to produce new textiles, while only non-recyclable elements like buttons and zippers in the feed material are rejected. The CIRC/Andritz concept is a technology for commercial use. The concept is based on the combination of mechanical, thermal and chemical process steps. First, PET is dissolved, separated and transformed into recycled PET. The cotton released is processed in the fibre line, where the quality is adjusted and all the residuals of PET and other impurities, including dyes, are removed. Recycled cotton can then be used as a feed material in the Lyocell process, for example.

Of course, processing polycotton has its challenges, one of which is to understand end-use requirements and find ways to measure relevant parameters to control final quality and the process. But Andritz has proved the feasibility of the concept in repeated small-scale production runs at its pilot plant in Springfield (Ohio, US). CIRC intends to have its first factory up and running in commercial operation in 2024, with Andritz Andritz has a full suite of expertise and technology to provide tailormade textile recycling processes that manage diverse types of textile waste. But it also leads the way in R&D, with a worldwide network of pilot plants and technology centers, offering platforms for customer trials and R&D work. In addition, the company’s capabilities in the field of digital solutions offer an opportunity to optimise equipment and system performance. With the experience and skills for material conditioning, mechanical, chemical and combined recycling methods, Andritz cooperates with innovative technology partners and focuses on continuous further development of machinery and recycling processes to accompany the customer throughout the product life cycle and equipment installed. The full suite beyond. Quite simply, Andritz is the partner with the vision, expertise and capability when it comes to textile recycling processes. Andritz Laroche offers a complete process range of tearing equipment

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Performance: the critical factor The performance textiles market

companies are developing innovative technologies to enhance product performance in the sector. For example, last year (2021) sportswear giant Puma launched its Ultraweave technology. According to the company, Ultraweave is its lightest-ever performance apparel technology engineered to optimise a footballer’s performance. And, a fibre that senses movement

much it is stretched or compressed and provides immediate tactile feedback in the form of pressure, lateral stretch or vibration. Such fabrics, the team suggests, could be used in garments to help wearers’ recover their breathing patterns. Also, the increased demand for athleisure has led to a new knitting technique called E-Knit, developed by MAS Holdings. Made with Stoll technology, the knit is created from a combination of staple and filament yarns and the process allows for manipulating the core properties of the fabric. Characteristics such as thickness, breathability and heat regulation can all be tweaked and the result is a garment that fits well and provides adequate support and enhanced comfort to the wearer. Such material advancements and demand for performance garments have enabled textile manufacturing businesses to return to pre-pandemic levels, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation’s (ITMF) 10th Covid-19 survey. Performance, therefore, is the key value when it comes to purchasing decisions in the sports and activewear markets. Sustainability will always come second to this. While players in the market and emerging start-ups are focusing on sustainability and attempting to improve the ingredients in their products and the way they are made, if the performance value decreases the switch to that more sustainable substitute is forsaken and more research and development (R&D) must take place. However, the industry is making inroads towards a more sustainable performance textile market. A lot of R&D is going in to discovering more environmentally-friendly solutions. A noteworthy development to mention comes from HeiQ. The Swiss company has created a continuous filament cellulose yarn capable of replacing polyester and nylon called AeoniQ. Carlo Centonze, co-founder and CEO, HeiQ, says: “At HeiQ, we’re trying to solve the problem of how to dress eight billion people sustainably. Eighteen million tonnes of polyester and nylon

(sportswear) has grown exponentially over recent years. The boom of the athleisure industry throughout the Covid-19 pandemic has compounded this growth with consumers demanding comfort and becoming increasingly concerned with fitness and wellbeing during national and regional lockdowns. The demand for a healthier lifestyle has propelled the activewear market to new heights. Performance will always be the determining factor for sportswear textile products and a number of

and provides immediate tactile feedback has been created by

researchers at Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in the US. Dubbed OmniFiber, the fibre can sense how

E-Knit is created from a combination of staple and filament yarns

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need to be substituted with sustainable alternatives and we have looked to the most abundant biopolymer on Earth for help: cellulose.” Elsewhere, UK-based Post Carbon Lab has developed a photosynthetic finish for garments. It inhales carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) and exerts oxygen. The finish uses microbial pigmentation treatment to catalyse its tree-like tendencies. According to the company, during its life cycle a garment coated in the Post Carbon Lab solution can produce the same amount of oxygen as an oak tree. In addition, garments coated with the finish are water resistant and breathable, with advanced antimicrobial and anti-odour properties, the company continues. In addition to sustainability, manufacturing technologies and personalisation appears an increasingly prevalent theme when it comes to

performance textiles. Footwear appears to be one of the core end products propelling these concepts, perhaps as it lends itself to robotic handling; soft goods are still difficult to manipulate and construct, with fabric gripping a key issue, compared with the skill and pace of experienced human operators. While Adidas has been experimenting with its Speedfactory concept for some time, sportswear company Salomon recently opened its Advanced Shoe Factory (ASF) 4.0 in the Auvergne- Rhône-Alpes region, France. The first shoe, the Salomon Captiv ASF 4.0, will be available spring 2022. Salomon, Babolat and Millet are partners and shareowners in ASF 4.0, with all brands located in the region. Such advanced factories also relate to the conversation around reshoring, localised production and the creation of skilled textile and apparel roles in

otherwise lacking regions, such as Western Europe. The group says the factory will create 50 high-skilled jobs in the area, ranging from skilled operators to engineers and programmers. We can assume such roles will only take on a more prevalent role in the realm of textile & apparel with the arrival and integration of next-generation manufacturing. Additionally, the work in advancing footwear manufacturing may catalyse the viability of apparel-orientated production automation. Thus, there is much innovation in the performance space in the products that are being developed and their individual components and also, in the way in which the products are being manufactured. We expect to see much of this innovation at this year’s Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil Summer Special.

What’s new in performance textiles coatings?

WTiN examines some of the latest developments across key textile coating effects, including odour and moisture management, before looking at more novel applications in smart textiles and 3D printing. By Jens Kastner, Sarah Gibbons, Jessica Basey

Summary

1. WTiN explores the various technical performance benefits of coatings.

2. As well as developments in conventional coating roles, such as odour control, moisture management and stretch recovery, this article explores the use of coatings in smart textiles and for textile-mounted 3D printing applications.

Key takeaways

1. The unwaning prevalence of athleisure has widened the relevance and consumer awareness of technical apparel with enhanced properties.

3. Desirable and convenience-driven properties, such as moisture management, odour control and stretch recovery provide competitive means to distinguish product in saturated sports, outdoors and leisurewear markets. 4. As well as conventional applications, coatings are utilised in the development of next generation textile innovations. These include smart textiles and 3D printing, whereby coatings have been implemented to improve durability, execution or functionality.

2. Even the most comfort-orientated fibre blends can be upgraded through functional coatings to enhance or add to the innate properties of the textile..